A Trip to Philly: Part 1

Our short stop at Fallingwater was followed up by an overnight stay in Cumberland, MD at a B&B, The Bruce House Inn.  Cumberland, MD is at the junction of the 316 mile bike trail from Washington DC to Pittsburgh, PA.  I love, absolutely love! staying at B&B's.  So my experience of any trip can be "upgraded" just by a night in a B&B!  And this one was wonderful!

Then we drove on into Philly for a visit with Matthew and Sharon.  Of course we started with dinner!  At the Local 44 Beer Bar. 

And I should mention that before we were off the tavern we make a quick stop at the cemetery to water Sharon's "farm".

But back to the BAR:

We all know the history of Philly in the establishment of this country:  the Declaration of Independence and eventually the Constitution were written here in Independence Hall.  The Liberty Bell is here and that crack in it still hasn't been repaired.  

One of the interesting aspects of Philly that I learned about is that Philly has murals painted on the sides of building throughout the central part of the city.  Murals began in 1984 as an Anti-Graffiti community project.  The Mural Arts Program has completed more than 3000 murals around the city since its beginning over 25 years ago.  Now you don't have to take a "tour" to see the murals- but this trip we decided to be more deliberate about viewing the murals.  So we took a walking tour of the murals and were impressed by the art work.  Most all of them were painted on the sides of building that were next to parking lots, so they could easily be viewed by the populous.  Here are pictures of a number of them.

These next two are called Franks.

So on your next trip to Philly- you must- you really must take a "tour" of the murals.  You can download a PDF map that gives clear directions on both a walking and driving tour.
And finally, I couldn't help but capture this "eatery"...(we didn't stop for lunch)!

But we did make our way to the Positano Coast.  We had a really wonderful lunch- and I loved the design colors!

But what really was surprising were the gardens in Philly.  John Bartram, who lived in Philly in the mid-1700's is considered the father of botany and the first Naturalist of this country.  His home on the Schuyllkill River has been turned into a garden and it contains trees that were planted by John Bertram over 200 years ago.  Bartram's Garden is the oldest Botanic Garden the the United States.  John Bartram, a Quaker, traveled north from Lake Ontario, west from the Ohio River and south to Florida collecting more than 200 native plants for his garden.  I was particulary impressed by a Yellow Wood tree that was in full bloom that was estimated to be 220 years old.  It is the big broad tree in the center of the picture.

I have to say that the Yellow Wood tree is one of my favorite trees.  They are fairly rare in the wild and even rarer in domestic settings, but we do have one that we planted about 12 years ago.  It is just now coming into bloom in our front yard with beautiful white flowers.  Below is a picture taken today of one of its blooms.

On the steps of the Bartram Home:

There was also an array of other tree and flowering shrubs including this orange azalea. 

But Bertram is also noted for saving a native tree from extinction.  The story says he found on a river bank in Georgia and brought it back to Philly and propagated it.  That was the last time the tree was seen in the wild.  Bertram was a great fan of Ben Frankllin and named the tree the Franklin Tree, genus Franklinia.  Does it surprise you that Max wanted a Franklin Tree for our yard?  The garden was having its annual plant sale and we brought one back with us to Cincinnati where it is now planted in our front yard.

I know, I know!  We don't need another tree- But there was one spot that still has enough sun that's been waiting for something perfect.  And the Ben Franklin Tree is perfect!  OK,  so this does look like a bush.  It is only about 3 feet tall, but it will grow to about 20 feet tall with a 20 foot spread, so it will eventually become a big Franklin Bush.

At Fallingwater

We took off for Philly on Thursday to spend the weekend with Matthew and Sharon.  From Cincinnati this involves driving west to east all the way across Pennsylvania.  Now that's not such a terrible drive, nothing like driving across Texas or Nebraska (not that the two should be compared in any negative sense other than football).  So we made the decision to make the trip in two days and take a little side trip to Fallingwater, one of the more famous Frank Lloyd Wright buildings which just happens to be located in the middle of nowhere Pennsylvania, a 90 minute drive south from Pittsburgh. 

Now if you didn't know better, one might wonder why a building might be called Fallingwater.  The reason is that this was built as a private vacation house for the Kaufman family who were the owners of a department store in Pittsburgh until it was acquired by the May Company in 1946.  These folks had this "camp ground" on a stream that they loved to visit and there just happened to be some waterfalls there.  So if you like the place and are going to build a vacation home, then why not build it right on top of the waterfall?  That makes all kinds of sense if you are Frank Lloyd Wright.

I don't know much about architecture- and not much about Frank Lloyd Wright.  But you can't be a living, breathing human being this century without having heard of Frank Lloyd Wright- and I've done my share of living and breathing.  I'm not sure the first time I heard of Fallingwater- it was after I moved to Ohio (and long after I knew the name Frank Lloyd Wright)- And there was even a personal connection because Don's brother lives in a house in Columbus that is a designed by a Wright Wanabe.  So we'd drive across Pennsylvania- for NYC- and now for Philly- and would say "someday...we'll stop".  Well that day was today. You really need to stop as well.  This is no ordinary house- and no ordinary story.

The Kaufman's were a wealthy, well educated Jewish family from Pittsburgh- traveling in artistic, well educated, sophisticated, international circles. They had one son.  This son-with an artistic nature- read Frank Lloyd Wright's autobiography (Wright was a prolific author- writing 20 books over his life)- And decided that he must, absolutely must study with Wright.  And he did.  It was this meeting that provided the catalyst that would become Fallingwater. 
Now for the accolades.  Frank Lloyd Wright is considered the GREATEST AMERICAN ARCHITECT!  And Fallingwater is considered his GREATEST WORK!  Wright was ambitious- and impetuous- arguably a genius.  And his life was absolutely scandalous.  Because of the publicity of his disastrous personal life- and the agonizing difficulty in obtaining commissions during the GREAT DEPRESSION, Wright's career as an architect was officially declared DEAD!  He was almost 70 years old- and had not designed in some time.  Talk about a comeback story!  He saw the land at Bear Run- the home of Fallingwater- for the first time at the age of 67 in 1933.  Of the more than 1000 Wright designs over his life time, over half of this amazing creativity began with this masterpiece, Fallingwater!  Amazingly, a third of his work was during the last decade of his life- before his death at 92. Makes me feel like maybe at this point in my life- younger than Wright when he designed Fallingwater- that maybe this ought to be considered a beginning- rather than a wind down to the end...  Imagine- your greatest work after your 65th birthday!

Anyway, we took the tour today and although we were not allowed to take any pictures inside the house, we could take all we wanted outside.  We'll have to come back and take the LONG TOUR- And this house does have a rather "museum" feel.  And it was a gallery of sorts- in fact the Kaufman's were personal friends with Frida Kahlo- she was a house guest at Fallingwater- and had presented the Kaufmans with two works by Diego Rivera that hang in Fallingwater. But as Don said- we could tour the inside- but we weren't permitted to take pictures during this SHORT TOUR.

So here are a few pictures of that famous house.  The one below taken as you approach the house.  To the right is a bridge that crosses the stream.

This sculpture sits right next to the stream on a sandstone rock wall.  The house is built of stone (all local sandstone, concrete, steel and glass).

This picture taken from the bridge looking at the stream.  The water is very clear and thus is not obvious in this picture

This picture better shows the water under the GREAT ROOM- these stairs lead to the water- and stop- they don't go anywhere- Grand Design- to sit on the steps and cool your feet in the water that flows to the waterfall below your home!

This was a foot wash station for use before coming into the house.  Note the stream of water and the bar of soap (Yardley Lavendar Soap) hanging from a chain.

These next two pictures were taken from behind the house..

And finally, the classic picture of Fallingwater that is used most often to show the house.

Finally, I want to put in my two cents worth about this house, and I guess most things designed by Wright.  The house and location are truly beautiful.  They are much more a work of art than what I would consider a comfy vacation home.  But then again, I'm not a big fan of contemporary design.  It's just not warm and inviting, almost like being in a museum, a cold and very impersonal museum where you can look, but not use.  I know Wright designed things to be useful and open, using horizontal lines and lots of windows, but it just doesn't feel like it could be a home.

Frank Lloyd Wright was as much an interior design artist as he was architect.  He designed all the furniture and textiles for his homes.  His interiors carried his vision every bit as much as his exteriors.  One of the most incredible parts of the interior of Fallingwater is the design of the hearth in the great room to include the huge boulder that the Kaufman's had used for sunning on their many trips to Bear Run as the hearth floor.

But of course I might point out that for Don (and me) the most important "design" feature of furniture- say a couch- is comfort.  We always walk into a furniture store and after I select a few sofas for color or style Don reclines for a little nap.  We buy the one that "naps" the best!

But this house was very lived in- and entertained in- and celebrated!  The Kaufman's used this as their retreat for about 30 years.  Near the end of the elder Kaufman's life he and his son determined that this great treasure was best donated so it might be shared with the public.  Eventually the son gave Fallingwater to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy, which then opened this treasure to the public. I'm so grateful that the Kaufman's in their touching generosity gave this gift of Frank Lloyd Wright to all of us!

A Beautiful Visitor!

Our niece Amy called last week and asked if we might like some company this week.  I bet you could hear our "YES" all the way to where you live!  Amy brings energy and excitement to all that surrounds her.  She is interested in everyone and everything.  Her curiosity is contagious! I always see the world just a bit differently by looking at the world for a bit with Amy. When you're with Amy you think perhaps you're more interesting that you thought before.  She listens with her whole body.  She looks out at the world with her whole body.  She can wake up a whole room from their slumber.   See- I knew you heard our loud "YES"!  We rarely get to see Amy since she lives up north (St. Paul, MN), so thoughts of visiting her are confined to the warmer month(s).  I understand that chances of frost are minimal in July and August.

We keep up with Amy via her blog.  But to have her here- up close and personal was a real treat!
And as fate would have it Krohn's Conservatory just started their Butterfly Exhibit.  So after lunch at the Half Day Cafe we were off! And we were so, so, so glad we did!  This exhibit was their Japanese Butterfly exhibit and they have two more planned each lasting about 4 weeks, so we plan to go again later in May and maybe again in June.  So here are some of the photos of those delicate little insects.

I have to say I loved watching Don and Amy photograph the butterflies almost as much as I loved watching the butterflies!

I think I might call Amy the "butterfly whisperer"!

Or maybe not?????
But what a great time...

And then we made a stop by the Ohio River.  Now it might not be the Bay- But I never tire of stopping to look out over this mighty river!

And of course there was a family dinner complete with Sarah and our wonderful GRANDS!

And might I rather modestly mention I made the MOST INCREDIBLE RHUBARB PIE!  I do have to admit that I think this rhubarb pie was probably the best pie that Max has ever made.  I know, it doesn't have any chocolate in it for those of you who have that preference, but the crust was perfect and the fresh rhubarb was absolutely wonderful.

Come again Amy! We're missing you already!